the above is a rather encapsulated translation - there will be better - but it is to give you the flavour of what I'm about to say: I think it means that they have focused on finding the right soils and the know-how of the trade and that these two factors are the keys to quality, irrespective of whether the producer choose to innovate. In other words, quality will always out if you start with good materials and knowledge.

So whatever they do, however much they fiddle around with the cultivars, technical know-how and good soils will ALWAYS remain the key to quality